Weingut Leitz, Grand Cru Riesling 'Berg Schlossberg' GG, 2020

A wine of true pedigree, this displays beautifully refined and complex aromas of beeswax, honey, white peach, frankincense and honeysuckle. The aromas may suggest sweetness, but the palate is as dry and stony as the hillside on which the grapes are grown. It has terrific intensity now, but if you can hold on to a few bottles for a few years, it will get even better. The Berg Schlossberg vineyard lies at the western end of Rheingau, where the river takes a sharp turn to the north. The dramatically steep slope, southerly exposure, superb drainage and protection from north winds by the Taunus Mountains make for an outstanding Grand Cru site - a challenge to cultivate, but the resulting wine makes the effort more than worth it.