Seresin Estate, Beautiful Chaos Natural White, 2023

As the name suggests, this is a truly beautiful combination of skin-contact Pinot Gris and Riesling. It has a glowing orange-amber colour, and strikingly Burgundian Pinot rosehip aromas, alongside baked peaches and marmalade. On the palate, tangy, crisp and brisk, with a light tannin sensation, reminiscent of lemon iced tea. It has restrained alcohol, masses of complexity and a long, invigorating finish. It is crafted through an ancient method, practised for millennia, since Noah first planted vines and made wine in the postdiluvian world. The style may be unaccustomed to modern palates, but take time to contemplate it, and it will reward you a with magnificent unfolding of complexity.