Rovellotti, Colline Novaresi DOC Vespolina Ronco al Maso, 2020

Dusky-deep garnet in colour, this Vespolina has an impressively complex, expressive nose of savoury, earthy, chestnutty, mature notes and subtle, mellowed fruit. The palate is deep-flavoured, with lithe balancing acidity and satisfyingly supple yet chewy tannin. This remarkable, quintessentially northern Piedmontese red could almost be a far more expensive Barolo, having benefited from several years' careful cellaring. The Vespolina variety is closely-related to the noble Nebbiolo, and produces similar-tasting wines. Usefully, however, they do not require the same degree of ageing before they are ready to drink.