Gramona. Lustros Brut Nature Organic, 2016

Intense, with fabulous tension between distinct maturity and youthful freshness. Aromas of baked apple, ripe pear, lemon and grapefruit zest, then dried flowers and herbs: fennel and rosemary. The exceptionally long ageing of 94 months prior to release has brought about decadent, complex notes of hazelnut, pastry, toast, brioche and toffee. This is a top-notch fine sparkling wine that becomes increasingly expressive as it opens up in the glass. With immediately evident concentration and a superbly-fine, creamy mousse of vanishingly tiny bubbles, it shows candied fruit, complex, mature flavours, and yet retails a refreshingly lively finish.