De Martino, 'Tres Volcanes' Chardonnay, Malleco, 2017

This gorgeous Chardonnay gives off irresistible scents of mellow, dusky peach and tropical fruit. It shows exceptional balance, with satisfying richness and roundness, while retaining a distinctive 'mineral' vein running through the middle. Now softened with maturity, it presents a bevelled, rounded, comfortably mellow personality - understated, yet utterly brilliant. This is made from the fruit of a single vineyard site at Traiguen in the Malleco Valley, around 400 miles south of Santiago, and near the southerly limit of viticulture in Chile. The landscape is dominated by snow-capped volcanoes (hence the name), and growing conditions are challenging in this marginal climate. The challenge is worth it, because marginal climates can produce some of the world's most thrilling wines, of which this is one.