Chateau Rayas, Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pignan, 2012

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly integrates the elevated alcohol. This is a remarkably uplifting Rayas with less obvious punch compared to riper years like 2009 or 2010, but the levels of intensity and finesse are jaw-dropping.