Casa da Passarella, O Fugitivo Uva Cão, 2020

Uva-Cão, or 'dog grape' is allegedly so-named because its notable acidity deterred illicit harvesting: it was known as 'the grape that guards the vines'. But please don't be scared. Casa da Passarella has raised a cuddly pooch from assertive ancestors - matured to a rich, golden colour, this joyous, fun-loving wine romps around with effusive notes of honey, green tea, hazelnuts, vanilla, lemon marmalade, butter and mint. And what of that supposedly fearsome acidity? It has tamed to a frisky freshness, that balances and holds everything together. Unreservedly delicious. Good dog!