Casa da Passarella, O Fugitivo Branco Em Curtimenta, 2018

This intriguing white has matured to an amazing copper-golden colour. It deserves time and attention, because it gives of its huge depth and complexity only slowly. As it sits in the glass, notes of honey, toasted pecan and maple syrup emerge, nuanced by hints of pine sap, black tea and polished wood. In the mouth, it is reminiscent of aged Jurançon Sec, with intensity, grip and a tannic tug, which gradually softens as the richness, intensity and complexity come to the fore. This is made from a field blend of Encruzado, Uva-Cão, Bical and Terrantez, white grapes which were vinified with skin-contact for around a month, a little like a red wine. This is a traditional winemaking method, which has seen a renaissance in recent years.